Art Deco is everywhere

Sir PM was dressed in appropriate attire for a march on foot – Sola cap, khakis and a crisp white linen shirt; Lady Flora was in her trademark white with a panama hat and sunglasses, giving her a striking look – a mix between a Greco-Roman goddess and an American tourist. The two reached their scheduled meeting point – the parapet near a popular juice center in Dadar’s Shivaji Park. Dr. Viegas was to become his mentor. The trio had planned to visit the area with Sir PM and Lady Flora on World Art Deco Day. Ever since the two attended an exhibition which displayed a detailed and well-researched display of plans by some of the best architects of India who did justice to this architectural style, and where not only in Sobo but Most of the sites in the suburbs were exhibited, he was keen to explore at least some parts of these and see it for himself.

Dr. Vegas welcomed his friends, saying, “What a wonderful April evening you both made.” Dressed in a bushshirt and chinos, he looked every bit a guide. “First of all, I hope you’re carrying enough water; We may also have to give up our tea routine for sugarcane juice or lemon water. It is ideal for summer,” he advised. “Let’s start with this set of buildings,” he began, as the trio crossed the road from Shivaji Park, and started down the tree-lined lane. “It’s good to know the footpaths have been saved,” said Sir PM and Lady Flora, as they took to heart every word shared by Dr Vegas. “Did you know that there are 198 Art Deco buildings in the entire Dadar area, which is the maximum number of all Deco places in the city and suburbs?” He revealed, much to his surprise. “And this whole time, we imagined Sobo wearing that crown!” Lady Flora exclaimed. Please go ahead, Vegas…”

Dr. Viegas took them through several streets of Shivaji Park, highlighting details as they passed the facades of buildings that have stood the test of time. Unbeknownst to Turquoise and Flora, Viegas was a keen student of architecture and took classes in secret due to his passion for the subject. By now drops of sweat had started dripping from his friends’ temples. It was time for water rest. As he sipped freshly squeezed sugarcane juice and relaxed on the terrace overlooking the famous grounds, he added, “Maratha & Kulkarni was one of the most important architectural firms whose works established this style in many parts of Dadar. Played an important role in, Matunga and Sion. Do you know that he built famous filmmaker V Shantaram’s bungalow Raj Kamal right here in Dadar? He also designed Aurora Talkies, which is now in ruins,” he shared, looking disappointed as the words came out. “Oh, Vegas. that’s awful. I remember my Dadar-based colleagues from the Bombay High Court talking about wonderful Sunday evenings with the family in this single-screen cinema,” Sir PM recalled.

Lady Flora said, “I believe we have got lucky with the single screens we have in Sobo. Some like Metro and now Eros have become multiplexes. Sadly, the New Empire and New Excelsior did not survive. Here, while some buildings survive, others are in dire need of repair. But the eyesore are these monstrous glass towers that dominate this charming neighborhood. Am I correct in guessing that the latter stands on sites where similar Art Deco gems were once housed?

Dr. Viegas sighed, “His luck ran out years ago; Possibly their homeowners did not realize the need to preserve them in their original incarnation, or they were unaware of its historicity, as you both may have learned when you attended that Art Deco exhibition. This is a serious issue here – I’ve been visiting these parts for years, thanks to my wife’s roots, and every time I go there’s another disfigurement in the concrete staring me in the face. I fear but in this blind race to acquire prestigious apartment blocks in Dadar, we are losing the original character of this great neighborhood which represents the highest standards of quality living for middle class citizens.

Sir PM further said, “I have heard how my friends in Sobo who fight for this cause and ultimately earn the honor of UNESCO World Heritage Site, find it difficult to continue. Imagine how difficult it must be for parents in these parts? In fact, he created a manual to help landlords, residents and tenants collectively restore buildings in a sensitive manner and thus ensure its longevity. “It is proving to be an unprecedented success in the Oval buildings.”

“If only these amazing miracles were able to survive. I hope that landlords and parties concerned with these historic buildings will try to implement similar measures, and remain united to protect these fine examples of Art Deco style,” wished Lady Flora. “After all, these are living testaments to the city’s unique character. When they’re gone, a small part of the city is gone too…”

Mid-Day’s Features Editor Fiona Fernandez loves the sights, sounds, smells and stones of the city… wherever her inkling and inclination takes her. She tweets @bombayana

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